Love this guide! I just moved to Napoli five months ago, and you are absolutely right, there are so many unspoken rules about the way to do things here! Excited to work my way through this list and learn more about the city!
I will be back in Napoli next week, (I adore that city❣️) and feel so lucky to have found your posts. There is a church I want to go where there is a monumental piece of art in marble, but can’t remember the name either of the church neither of the sarcophagus, can you rescue me please? Awesome posts I am subscribing❣️
Just found this, seems like an amazing guide. Will definitely save this for a future trip. Napoli è bellissima, ogni volta che la visito è difficile andarsene.
In 2013 I spent a month in Naples. I stayed in a room in this amazing and ramshackle old Spanish Palazzo owned by the same people who run the Herman Nitsch museum. I was there, mostly doing small oil paintings in the streets.
I loved Naples, like being in a city designed by Dr. Seuss, with all of the buildings built on top of ever more ancient buildings.
Wandering through the small historical streets one day, I found the perfect view, but I could only really see it if I stood right in the middle of the street. So I just set up right smack dab in the middle.
Probably something I wouldn’t have done anywhere else, but I realized with the chaos of Naples, I would just be part of the mayhem and everybody would have to go around me. And indeed no one gave me a second glance.
As I said, I loved Naples, and maybe it’s been gentrified in the last few years. But I also remember it being the filthiest city I’ve ever been in, including Bangkok. I guess I’ll have to come back and see…
Hi Stephan, WOW. What an incredible story and thank you so much for taking me down memory lane with you. I love hearing moments like this. And what an experience to live in a Spanish palazzo!! Re: SO dirty. It is quite sad…the citizens contribute to it too and I know the city doesn’t help. I will never understand throwing trash on the ground when the trash can is two steps away!
such an incredible city!! The new metro line is also a work of art!! Love sanità market. Such a vibrant neighborhood. We lived in the Spanish Quarters for a year…what an experience!
Hi there! Absolutely! For a bed and breakfast in the quaint seaside neighborhood right next to the water, I’ve heard fantastic things about artemisia domus giardino…there is also one in the center of town near Piazza Dante that is owned by the same group. There is hotel royal continental for a luxurious experience on the waterfront. San Francesco al Monte is right above the Spanish quarters so easy to get to the action while also having a bit of breathing room!
This is the best guide! I love this city so much, there is always something to discover. Have you been to cappella San Severo to see il cristo velato? I had been there probably 10 years ago and this was quite unique to see.
What a life you're living! Melancholy and nostalgia are a powerful combo.
We might be going to Italy with my kids and husband's parents in June, and Naples has been mentioned as one of our potential destinations. Based on a December day that I spent exploring the city as a solo traveler in 2008 (and also, let's be honest, the Ferrante novels), I'm questioning if it's ideal for tiny American children and seniors without a local connection.
I absolutely love the Ferrante novels!! There’s not as much to do in Naples for kids like Rome let’s say, and is definitely a bit tough to move around for elderly folks (it’s very hilly in certain parts). I am not sure how much time you have in Italy but you could always do a day and head to the islands! We loved ischia!
Palermo is like Naples!! Chaotic, lively and so much good food!! Rome has a lot to do for kids! So many parks and kid museums! Let me know what you plan i can send some recommendations ❤️
Saving this for my next trip! I traveled to Naples for the first time last summer and definitely ended up in the loving it camp. I'll have to make it to a beach next time!
I live near and work in Liverpool and it's population are the closest to Neapolitans I've come across. No matter the bleakness of the circumstances there's "always tomorrow, let's have a drink on us today" There's the same railing against authorities that I've experienced in Napoli and so whenever I go to Napoli and I've been a number of times I'm used to the chaos the noise and it's people.
I was last there in November it was All Saints day and our funicular unloaded us nr Pignasecca market. It was packed wall to wall people enjoying drinks cones full of fried fish all the while dodging speeding Ape and scooters loaded people and pizze.
I said to my partner "imagine this being your first experience of Italy? You'd run a mile"
Yes Napoli suits every bad thing thrown at it. It is chaotic, dirty overcrowded but you know what? I love it. I love it despite of those things you can visibly see are wrong. I love for the feeling I get about the place. That if you were in desperate trouble a Neopolitan would die for you. Would a Roman or a Milanese? Possibly yes, probably not.
I love Italy in its entirety but Naples needs someone to stick up for it so here I am
Hi Mark, first, thank you for reading this piece. I am so happy to hear your experience and how you embraced the chaos!! Sometimes it's ironic because many Italian cities are “chaotic and corrupt” but less in your face like Naples. It is true, the Neapolitans will lend a hand. When I was pregnant I had to do a number of muscular shots. And you know what my partner did? He asked around his neighborhood until they found someone to help me. I don't think this would be the case for many other cities…
Such a great guide! I could spend hours in the archeological museum. The Museo di Capodimonte is also pretty spectacular. And Museo MADRE is fun too. Ugh now I need to go back!
Love this guide! I just moved to Napoli five months ago, and you are absolutely right, there are so many unspoken rules about the way to do things here! Excited to work my way through this list and learn more about the city!
Thank you so much!! And I hope you're enjoying Naples ❤️❤️
This is a fabulous guide with so many insights! Thanks for sharing it with us.
I somehow missed this…thank you!!!
I will be back in Napoli next week, (I adore that city❣️) and feel so lucky to have found your posts. There is a church I want to go where there is a monumental piece of art in marble, but can’t remember the name either of the church neither of the sarcophagus, can you rescue me please? Awesome posts I am subscribing❣️
Ciao Luisa! Thank you so much for reading! Is it the veil of Christ? At Sansevero chapel?
Awww I believe that’s the one Gabriela you rock grazie tante!
I heard it is incredible! I've never been but I believe you may need tickets. Enjoy napoli!! Xx
Grazie! Fabulous guide ❤️
Thank you! 😍
Just found this, seems like an amazing guide. Will definitely save this for a future trip. Napoli è bellissima, ogni volta che la visito è difficile andarsene.
Grazie Francesco, è sempre un piacere leggere il tuo commento ❤️❤️❤️
E napoli davvero è magica!!
In 2013 I spent a month in Naples. I stayed in a room in this amazing and ramshackle old Spanish Palazzo owned by the same people who run the Herman Nitsch museum. I was there, mostly doing small oil paintings in the streets.
I loved Naples, like being in a city designed by Dr. Seuss, with all of the buildings built on top of ever more ancient buildings.
Wandering through the small historical streets one day, I found the perfect view, but I could only really see it if I stood right in the middle of the street. So I just set up right smack dab in the middle.
Probably something I wouldn’t have done anywhere else, but I realized with the chaos of Naples, I would just be part of the mayhem and everybody would have to go around me. And indeed no one gave me a second glance.
As I said, I loved Naples, and maybe it’s been gentrified in the last few years. But I also remember it being the filthiest city I’ve ever been in, including Bangkok. I guess I’ll have to come back and see…
Hi Stephan, WOW. What an incredible story and thank you so much for taking me down memory lane with you. I love hearing moments like this. And what an experience to live in a Spanish palazzo!! Re: SO dirty. It is quite sad…the citizens contribute to it too and I know the city doesn’t help. I will never understand throwing trash on the ground when the trash can is two steps away!
I adore Naples! Don’t miss the markets( sanità is a favorite) or the art metro stations-with riding the metro to see them.
such an incredible city!! The new metro line is also a work of art!! Love sanità market. Such a vibrant neighborhood. We lived in the Spanish Quarters for a year…what an experience!
Loved this read! Do you have any hotel recommendations for Naples? 🙏🏻
Hi there! Absolutely! For a bed and breakfast in the quaint seaside neighborhood right next to the water, I’ve heard fantastic things about artemisia domus giardino…there is also one in the center of town near Piazza Dante that is owned by the same group. There is hotel royal continental for a luxurious experience on the waterfront. San Francesco al Monte is right above the Spanish quarters so easy to get to the action while also having a bit of breathing room!
This is the best guide! I love this city so much, there is always something to discover. Have you been to cappella San Severo to see il cristo velato? I had been there probably 10 years ago and this was quite unique to see.
Thank you Marina ❤️ I haven't! I heard it's absolutely breathtaking! Ever time my parents come they try to go but it's sold out.
Yes it is incredible! I hope you can see it soon, at the time it was quite a secret place and even hard to find the entrance.
Inspirational - thank you for this post!
What a life you're living! Melancholy and nostalgia are a powerful combo.
We might be going to Italy with my kids and husband's parents in June, and Naples has been mentioned as one of our potential destinations. Based on a December day that I spent exploring the city as a solo traveler in 2008 (and also, let's be honest, the Ferrante novels), I'm questioning if it's ideal for tiny American children and seniors without a local connection.
Either way, I've always wanted to return one day!
I absolutely love the Ferrante novels!! There’s not as much to do in Naples for kids like Rome let’s say, and is definitely a bit tough to move around for elderly folks (it’s very hilly in certain parts). I am not sure how much time you have in Italy but you could always do a day and head to the islands! We loved ischia!
Funny story, I spent early labor with my first watching the Ischia episode of the TV-adaptation of "My Brilliant Friend." It looks gorgeous!
My in-laws also want to go to Rome and Palermo (where their family immigrated from).
Palermo is like Naples!! Chaotic, lively and so much good food!! Rome has a lot to do for kids! So many parks and kid museums! Let me know what you plan i can send some recommendations ❤️
I will! I’m looking at home exchanges this week :)
Saving this for my next trip! I traveled to Naples for the first time last summer and definitely ended up in the loving it camp. I'll have to make it to a beach next time!
Woo!! You'll love it!!
What an exhilarating & lovely guide! Grazie mille!
Thank you Ivana ❤️😍
I live near and work in Liverpool and it's population are the closest to Neapolitans I've come across. No matter the bleakness of the circumstances there's "always tomorrow, let's have a drink on us today" There's the same railing against authorities that I've experienced in Napoli and so whenever I go to Napoli and I've been a number of times I'm used to the chaos the noise and it's people.
I was last there in November it was All Saints day and our funicular unloaded us nr Pignasecca market. It was packed wall to wall people enjoying drinks cones full of fried fish all the while dodging speeding Ape and scooters loaded people and pizze.
I said to my partner "imagine this being your first experience of Italy? You'd run a mile"
Yes Napoli suits every bad thing thrown at it. It is chaotic, dirty overcrowded but you know what? I love it. I love it despite of those things you can visibly see are wrong. I love for the feeling I get about the place. That if you were in desperate trouble a Neopolitan would die for you. Would a Roman or a Milanese? Possibly yes, probably not.
I love Italy in its entirety but Naples needs someone to stick up for it so here I am
Hi Mark, first, thank you for reading this piece. I am so happy to hear your experience and how you embraced the chaos!! Sometimes it's ironic because many Italian cities are “chaotic and corrupt” but less in your face like Naples. It is true, the Neapolitans will lend a hand. When I was pregnant I had to do a number of muscular shots. And you know what my partner did? He asked around his neighborhood until they found someone to help me. I don't think this would be the case for many other cities…
This is lovely! Thank you!
Thank you Dana!
Such a great guide! I could spend hours in the archeological museum. The Museo di Capodimonte is also pretty spectacular. And Museo MADRE is fun too. Ugh now I need to go back!
Thank you Laura!! I love Capodimonte and the park is so relaxing. Dying to go to museo madre!!