The Naples Guide Even the Neapolitans Would Follow
Eating, caffeinating, and swimming the Neapolitan way.
Naples is chaotic, corrupt, and counterintuitive. I have loved Naples so much I’ve hated it, and hated it so much I’ve loved it. And no, unlike many cities, I don’t think there is anything in between. If you know someone who has traveled south to the Mezzogiorno and made a stop in Bella Napoli, the consensus will most likely echo exactly this. It is either “get me the f*ck out of here,” or “I totally get it. Better yet, I am intoxicated by it. I will never find another place like this that makes me feel like I do here.”
Naples is old. How old? That’s up for debate, especially when it comes to whether it’s actually older than Rome (most Neapolitans would say, ovvio, of course it is). But regardless of how old, what this really means is that there’s an overwhelming amount of history, beauty, art, food, and crumbling layers to uncover here. But be warned, the beauty you find in cities like Rome or Florence isn’t as obvious or in-your-face in Naples.
When I first traveled down to Naples post-lockdown, the city’s charm had taken storm, thanks to popular local photographers like Ciro Pipoli, who first piqued my interest—photographs of his neighborhood, decorated with dangling laundry and older men laying out rocks, collecting some sun while dousing themselves in baby oil. That, and I was always itching to uncover the “uglier” or more “rough” areas of a place that held the true, authentic gems. Naples, to no surprise, had it all.
The Italian city that isn’t Itailan
If you have heard someone talk about Naples, odds are they will say it is a different world. And they are right. It absolutely is. The city is far removed from the stereotypical Italian dolce vita, the perfectly paved cobblestone streets, and the romantic notion of men sweeping you off your feet via Vespa. Here, it’s messy. But it’s a beautiful mess. There’s a different language, a different code of ethics, a different culture entirely. Naples stands apart, existing in a universe all its own.
If you ask any Neapolitan where they’re from, or better yet, who they are, they will never say they’re Italian. They’ll say they’re Neapolitan. Why? Because they grew up differently. They live differently. Not because they want to, but because it’s the only way to survive.
There are unspoken rules in Naples that you’ll never fully understand, no matter how long you live here. Trust me, I’ve tried. Why? Because you’re not Neapolitan! Haven’t you learned this by now? And can’t you see how quickly Naples will make you want to slam your head against the wall? It’s all part of its intoxicating charm that drags you kicking and screaming back for more.
What Naples really is, beyond Maradona and Ferrante
The city sits between not one, but two active volcanoes. Depending on where you’re standing, you can see the rocky islands of Capri, Procida, and Ischia on one side, and the Sorrento Peninsula on the other. Geographically, this is the perfect metaphor for how the city and its people live: constantly suspended between beauty, chaos, and destruction.
Though the city has lost much of its roots thanks to the rise of BnBs, fried food stands popping up left and right, and a central historic quarter now resembling a Disney-like land, Naples will always remain Naples IF you know where to go.
Naples is hard to describe in words: the energy, the magic, the people, the smells, the tastes. Though to me, Naples is:
The constant ué guagliò and ce verimm’ aròppo.
The smell of fresh-caught fish on the volcanic pavement streets, mixing with floral laundry detergent you’ll never find anywhere else.
The dusty fumes from a half-broken motorino that nearly takes your life on the street corner, while the driver smokes a cigarette with two passengers on the back.
Hot summer days blurred by fresh tomatoes and mozzarella, and even hotter evenings soaked in cheap white wine and peaches in plastic cups.
Living in a constant state of melancholy and nostalgia, washed away with an overdose of coffee and dips in the sea, no matter what month it is.
Winter Sunday lunches packed with hot pasta al forno or pasta e ragù, and summer lunches with mussels or broken pasta (yes, they break it, see below) with more fresh tomatoes.
The openness and warmth of the people, despite the unimaginable hardships most Neapolitans face every day.
Neapolitan living
I’ve spent two and a half years living here, with a few month-long summer stints mixed in. And let’s not sugarcoat it: it hasn’t always been easy. Though with the help of A LOT of integration, a Neapolitan partner, neighbors, friends, and straight curiosity, I’ve come to know the city a bit more, day by day, piece by piece. Below are my favorite suggestions, including many spots even the locals swear by (and trust me, that’s saying a lot!).
Coffee + morning sweets
No other city does espresso like Naples, but not every bar serves it the way Neapolitans prefer. In true Neapolitan fashion, start your day with a sugar hit to get moving and grooving as you explore this chaotic, beautiful city.
Bar Mexico: And no bar does espresso like Mexico. Period. With multiple locations across the city, it’s the perfect place to grab your first shot after stepping off the high-speed train. Note: the decor is perfection, decked out in yellow, brown, green, and blue tones, from tiles to the bar counter.
Caffè Mastracchio aka Caffè Caldo Freddo: Down an alley in the Spanish Quarters, Caffè Mastracchio serves caffè caldo freddo: a shot of espresso with a spoonful of a creamy gelato-like vanilla frozen mixture, topped with thick chocolate syrup. It’s the best afternoon pick-me-up I can think of. Most wouldn’t bat an eye at this joint, but trust me, go for the caffè caldo freddo.
Augustus Napoli: Find yourself strolling down the city’s mega hub of Via Toledo, and make your way to Augustus, where they do coffee and the classic Neapolitan pastries exceptionally well.
Chalet Ciro: Chalet Ciro’s cult-favorite graffa does the morning sugar-rush trick: a lightly fried donut generously dusted with sugar. Fluffy, light, and irresistibly addictive, it’s a local go-to from 7 a.m. to midnight along the waterfront of Mergellina.
Sfogliatella Attanasio: A few steps from the Garibaldi train station, it’s conveniently located. Noted for freshness and quality for a hundred years, the bakery turns fresh, logster-tailed sfogliatella out of the oven and into customers’ hands every ten minutes. Expect one hot with intoxicating orange-zest aromas.
Pasticceria Poppella: Another specialty of the city, go only for one thing and one thing only: Fiocchi di Neve. It’s a soft brioche-like bun filled with not overly sweet ricotta-like cream, like a cream puff, but 100000X better.
Good Neapolitan fare
Neapolitans are the kings and queens of cucina povera (peasant cooking), and at its core, Naples is the epicenter of “authentic” Italian eating. If you can get into a Neapolitan’s home for a meal, you’ll eat the best food there. If not, the options below are just as good.
De’ figliole: Pizza fritta (fried pizza) is the city’s overlooked sister to the pizza Margherita. Born post-WWII, when Naples was decimated, fried pizza became a necessity for survival. According to my Neapolitan partner, who’s been eating fried pizza since birth, De’ Figliole does it best.
Ristorante Pizzeria Dal Soldino: Skip the long lines at Da Michele or Sorbillo (long lines that make them overrated IMO) and head to this quaint pizzeria that borders the Spanish Quarters and Chiaia district. The pizza is classic, the atmosphere is modern-ish, and the prices are right.
Pizzeria La Notizia 53: Enzo Coccia, known for his mastery of Neapolitan pizza, offers both classic pies and innovative takes (which is why I am coming here). It’s been written about in nearly every food publication and for good reason!
Mimì alla Ferrovia: For dinner, it’s always Mimì alla Ferrovia. Just steps from the Garibaldi station, this restaurant has been serving Neapolitan classics since 1943. Chef Salvatore Giuliano adds modern twists to traditional dishes. Don’t skip the starters like stuffed peppers or potato croquettes, followed by a decadent plate of pasta alla Genovese.
Salumeria Malinconico: Part neighborhood mini-market, part cold-cut sandwich shop, Salumeria Malinconico is a fourth-generation Neapolitan institution. Order a classic like cicoli and ricotta with black pepper or prosciutto, mozzarella, and pickled eggplant. Take a seat at the two-seat lunch table by the front window with a cold beer and a birds-eye view of Mount Vesuvius.
Cibi Cotti Nonna Anna: Tucked in the Mercato di Mergellina, there’s no other place like Cibi Cotti. Open only for lunch from 12-3 pm, there is no menu and barely enough tables to sit a family of four. Head up to the glass counter where daily dishes and sides are displayed for you to point to and choose from. Everything from seasonal Neapolitan sautéed vegetables to pasta with lentils and salmon cooked to perfection.
CU.QU. / cucina di quartiere: For Neapolitan culinary classics with a creative bistrot twist, from brunch to after-work happy hour, pay a visit to CU.QU./cucinadiquartiere, which is situated in an alleyway of another alleyway of the Spanish Quarters.
Looking for an aperitivo spot? Try Spazio Nea for classic Italian cocktails and spirits. For wine I love Puteca that is perched on a staircase leaving the Spanish Quarters or JUS natural wine bar.
A dip in the bay
If you know Naples, you know that the people, the city, and the culture are governed by one thing and one thing only: the sea. Yes, in Naples, there are only two seasons: ‘A staggione (summer season) and everything else. My favorite time to visit Naples is in the summer. despite the heat, it’s the best time to experience real Neapolitan magic.
Bagno Sirena: A small, intimate sandy beach next to Palazzo Donn’Anna, this beloved spot is one of the few beach clubs along the Posillipo coast. Recognizable by its striped umbrellas and matching turquoise chairs, it offers a view of the coastline of Vesuvius and the sea—and for just 15 to 20 euros a day, you can enjoy its calm waters for a true Neapolitan summer experience.
Spiagga delle Monache: A tiny public beach of infatuating beauty next to Bagno Sirena faces a cluster of two brightly pink buildings with blue shutters and wild greenery and feels like the most crucial secret Naples has to offer. The best part? It doesn’t cost a dime. Just bring a towel or folding chair and blend in with the locals.
Bagno Elena: One of Naples’s oldest beach clubs that has been around since the 1890s. Bagno Elena offers a much more relaxed environment than Bagno Sirena on the left side of Palazzo Donn’anna and a larger stretch of sandy beach.
Marechiaro: Head further down the Posillipo district to Marechiaro, a charming long stretch of seaside coves known for crystal-clear waters, quaint fishing boats, and stunning views of the Bay of Naples. A beloved spot for authentic Neapolitan seaside beauty, you can hop on a row boat with a motor and relax on a lounge chair perched on the rocks or unwind on the deck over the water at Marechiaro’s beach club called Lido Marechiaro.
Culture and sites
The Cloister of Santa Chiara: A hidden oasis that far too many visitors overlook. Tucked behind a 14th-century convent church, this 13th-century religious complex is adorned with hand-painted 17th-century yellow majolica tiles and frescos, peaceful gardens, a museum, and a serene chapel that offers a relaxing escape in the heart of Naples.
Palazzo Spagnolo: Deep in the Rione Sanità, 18th-century Palazzo Spagnolo is one of the city’s most notable buildings yet easily missable, tucked behind a bunch of fruit stands in the working-class neighborhood. Admire its double staircase, greenery-adorned details, and Baroque architecture.
The Spanish Quarters: A mindless stroll through the 16th century Spanish Quarters is a must when in Naples. Go deep into the neighborhood with no aim and get lost in the local commotion and chatter.
The Basilica di San Francesco di Paola of Piazza Plebiscito: Situated in the city’s grandest and most important open-air piazza, the Basilica of San Francesco is mostly mistaken for being closed. This larger-than-life, Pantheon-style church is lined with grand Greek columns on the west end of the piazza, a feast for the eyes both inside and out.
The Royal Palace of Naples: On the opposite side of the basilica named above is the Royal Palace, once home to the Bourbon kings who ruled Naples and decked it out with grand marble staircases, velvet rooms, and tapestry art on display for visitors.
The National Archeological Museum of Naples: One of the most vast archeological museums not only in Italy but in the world, the National Archaeological Museum of Naples is renowned for its extensive collections of Greek and Roman antiquities from cities like Pompeii and Herculaneum, Egyptian artifacts, and ancient works of art, offering visitors a look into the former Mediterranean world.
The Duomo of Naples AKA San Gennaro: What is probably the city’s most important church, the Duomo hides so many secrets. My favorite room is downstairs in San Gennaro’s cappella.
Shopping for Neapolitan keepsakes
Casa Cometa: In the heart of the Spanish Quarters, Terry Di Renzo’s studio is a mystical and colorful wonder, drawing inspiration from the city’s religious motifs and figures to create artisanal treasures of Naples, including ceramics and the famous religious ex-voto. Visit her, but make an appointment first!
Omega Gloves: Did you know Naples produces most of Italy's leather gloves? Those runway shows sporting elbow-high alpine green leather beauties? Odds are they came from Naples. Pay a visit to Omega Gloves' workshop and watch your custom-cut, fitted pair come to life for around 100 euros.
Retrophilia Vintage Clothing: Naples sure isn’t Paris when it comes to vintage shopping, but Luigi’s vintage shop Retrophilia attracts MANY Parisians (Isabel Marant included). His collection is meticulously handpicked, traveling throughout Italy and Europe to find the best pieces. He isn’t intrusive at all and pulls pieces for you that will suit your figure. Plus, he sells incredible in-house leather shoes made by an artisan in the city center (who is the same artisan for some of the biggest fashion houses).
Salvio Gioielleria Napoli: For jewelry, both vintage and modern, head to a fourth-generation gioielleria called Salvio in the historic center. I have a beautiful beaded coral necklace as well as a turquoise one with Neapolitan motifs as charms; I never take them off.
Blu Costiera: Talented Raffaele and her husband Antonio of Blu Costiera are on a mission creating soaps, candles, natural essences, objects, and home decor, transporting us on a wonderful journey through the beauty, colors, and scents of the Amalfi Coast. 100% natural with a hand-made ceramic tray from neighboring ceramic town Vietri sul Mare.
I will leave shopping at that, more coming soon that I will link back here once published :)
Neapolitan neighbors:
Love this guide! I just moved to Napoli five months ago, and you are absolutely right, there are so many unspoken rules about the way to do things here! Excited to work my way through this list and learn more about the city!
This is a fabulous guide with so many insights! Thanks for sharing it with us.