Has the 'Made in Italy' Fashion Label Lost Its Heritage & Prestige?
The evolution of Made in Italy, from heritage to exploitation. Plus, the artisans and designers who keep the spirit alive.
I am on my way to visit Pasquale, a talented Calabrian by descent, bag maker in the heart of Rome’s city center, where he has been dedicated to his craft for nearly 60 years. It is a few days before the calendar marks July, and it is hot. We meet to grab a coffee before we make the ascent up to his studio on the 6th floor. No elevator, by the way, and poor Pasquale is dealing with an unresolved knee ache. In tow, I have a few bags I am taking to put into his trusty hands—one leather bucket bag by Coach that my mom had before I was most likely born, and an even older one, by Furla, that my grandmother kept and had seen, well, better days, and a second-hand nylon Prada bag from the men’s section from early 2000s.
To find someone like Pasquale is simply by luck, and by luck I mean word of mouth. My connection was via an old friend’s ex-boyfriend’s Roman mother (say that three times fast!), who probably knew of him through her own mother, but I digress. Most people like Pasquale will never be found in a storefront or a street-level, extravagant studio, but behind hidden corners and back-end studios, faces turned away from the limelight and much-deserved recognition.
Pasquale gets to work after I hand him my lifeless bags that he will soon make come back to life. He invites me to stay and chat, switches on his barely functioning fan in the corner of the studio, slips on his work coat, lights a cigarette, and writes me a receipt he repeats multiple times not to lose. Pasquale is one of the many examples and faces of Made in Italy, the ones who started at a young age, barely finishing middle school, most likely following in their fathers’ footsteps to make some money and start work (for life) at a ripe age of 14.
They are true craftsmen/women/people who worked for some of the biggest fashion giants for their livelihoods, only to be abandoned and left to fend for themselves. He remarks on this, how many, like him, were abruptly abandoned for cheaper labor. Pasquale has worked with private clients for some 30 years, like myself, and many young, talented Italians who worked their way up the corporate ladder for experience, yes, but only to find some hidden truths many of us never expected.
The history behind the ‘Made in Italy’ movement
In my eyes, Pasquale is the utmost perfect example of a Made in Italy figure and craftsman: talent, quality, honesty, authenticity, a face, a name, a voice, a one-person show that will tell you exactly where he sourced your leather down to the minutes it takes to make your dream bag from start to finish. How the ‘Made in Italy’ label should be. But, for starters, since the label is getting lost in translation, let’s look at how it came to be.
After the post-WWII devastation (morally, physically, emotionally, and economically), the country was looking for ways to rebuild not only its surroundings but also its economy. (An excellent book about Naples/Italy post WWII is this one by Norman Lewis.) What wasn’t lost, despite the pre and post war periods in Italy, was the talent and craftsmanship of Italian artisans and makers. But the global recognition? It became the government’s objective to quickly create the Italian Trade Commission in the early 1950s to promote Italian goods synonymous with craftsmanship, innovation, attention to detail, and tradition. By the 60s and 70s, major Italian powerhouses from Gucci to Ferragamo began using the Made in Italy tagline and label we know today. The Made in Italy movement became a status symbol for high rollers, celebrities, and those chasing exclusivity, like Jackie Kennedy, Audrey Hepburn, and Grace Kelly. Brands that would take the world and trends by storm for generations.
So, what changed? As demand increased, so did mass production.
Craftsmanship vs. Marketing Gimmick
Let’s talk about the luxury monsters. No, I don’t mean that lightly. If you’re in it for the label, the cult following, the nostalgia, or just because you like it, sure, buying into these brands makes sense. But if you’re convinced that the quality is the best in the world because of some Made in Italy promise from the 50s, think again. Plus, the price-to-quality ratio is a whole other story.
I’m not anti Gucci or Prada, but as someone who saves up for special purchases, I don’t want to be disillusioned. The truth? The marketing from these luxury giants is good, sometimes intoxicatingly good, to the point that you think, “I want to be part of that too.” Same with the PR, maybe even more so. There’s the allure, saying “look at my new Miu Miu loafers.” But plenty of people have gone public with complaints about the quality. Not to mention the “exclusive” shopping experience that’s supposed to set them apart, but is it really exclusive? Is this all just a coincidence?
So today, what does Made in Italy really represent? Certainly not what it originally meant, at least not for the luxury giants that built and have carried the label’s global reputation. “But... it’s made in ITALY!” Yes, the products are physically made in Italy (at least we think…), but the working conditions, extreme markups, and exploitation are exactly the kind of practices we all condemn in overseas sweatshops like those in China or Bangladesh. But what about Italy?
Here’s a glimpse of what’s been happening behind the scenes over the past year or so:
Just days ago, Milan Public Prosecutor’s Office launched an investigation into 13 of the globe’s most prominent brands after discovering over 200 employees subject to gangmastering. The brands under investigation include: Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Versace, Gucci, Missoni, Ferragamo, Yves Saint Laurent, Givenchy, Pinko, Coccinelle, Adidas, Alexander McQueen and Off-White.
This quarter, Italian prosecutors raided a Chinese-run sweatshop just outside of Florence in the historic manufacturing district of Prato, where workers were making as little as 3.50 euros an hour, making bags for Prada.
This past July 2025, 100-year-old fashion giant Loro Piana was prosecuted by Milan’s Public Office after finding a handful of workers reportedly worked 16+ hour days for as little as €4 an hour, making jackets sold to the Loro Piana brand for around €100, even though those jackets retail for more than €3,000 up to €5,000.
In the summer of 2024, once again, Milan prosecutors raided an Armani and Dior sweatshop run factory, where workers were creating Dior bags, sold to the brand for just 50 euros a piece.
In 2024, Tod’s was also under investigation for sweatshop-like conditions (shocker), and the founder of the company even had the audacity to make a public statement saying such investigations would hurt the Made in Italy label, and that Tod’s stands for ethical values…nothing like a gaslighter!
So, just in over a year, we are seeing a very common pattern. Luxury brands are making billions in revenue, sickeningly after profit, sacrificing quality, ethics, and a controlled supply chain.
Above is just an example of the true “luxury” these exploited workers are faced with every day. 1Granary, an incredible fashion-based educational brand, interviewed workers employed by Max Mara, reportedly making 100 garments PER DAY. That viral Teddy Coat you’ve been seeing on your newsfeed is around 2,500 euros? Yep, that Max Mara. Again, this is just one example.
Those who embody the ‘Made in Italy’ with dignity
All hope is not lost. Over the years, I’ve met countless designers, artisans, and creators who prove this every day. Pasquale is one of them. He reminds me—us—that price doesn’t sacrifice quality. Pasquale is hope. He embodies the true spirit of Made in Italy.
I’ll admit, finding these talented brands and individuals is not as easy as a billboard advertisement by Versace, nor may it garner the “in-person” exclusivity—waiting in line, velvet ropes, appointments to browse, and a complimentary espresso. But it will absolutely promise quality (real, humane quality). The connection, the craftsmanship, and the purchasing power we have to smell the products, touch the products, feel the products, and most importantly, ask the questions is what makes it meaningful. Carrying hope and the legacy of what Made in Italy really is.
I will end with what one incredible brand on my radar, A di Gaeta, has written in plain sight on their website:
Quality demands patience, which is why we searched all over Italy for a selection of forward-thinking artisans. A di GAETA products are entirely handmade in Italy, using certified luxury-grade materials. We decided to work only with Italian producers because of the heritage and humanity that there is behind the entire production chain: from the procurement of raw materials to the realization of the product. The rise of responsible luxury allows brands like ours to play a key role in promoting a cultural shift in society and influencing consumers to buy responsibly.
Powerful? Absolutely.
Xx
Italian artisans & designers I love
Yes yes love this! So important to remember that just because it’s luxury does NOT mean it’s supreme quality or sustainable. Also I love Pasqual he seems awesome and so talented
This is such an informative piece. Thank you for advocating for the local artisans! It's insane how quickly they can get blotted out in today's fashion culture.