Between the Stalls of Rome's Porta Portese Market

A Sunday walk through Italy's largest flea market, plus tips and navigation tricks.

I discovered Porta Portese nearly six years ago when TikTok was non-existent, and trendy restaurants, bars, and beach clubs were discovered scrolling the beautiful wide web (good times, right?). I moved to Rome in 2019 and spent my first Saturday evening preparing for my first outing in the Eternal City.

I stumbled upon the famous Porta Portese market by chance (or, as I now like to say, by destiny) thanks to Pinterest's Narnia-like algorithm, which led me to an article probably titled “The Best Things to Do In Rome.” For the past five years, I have spent nearly every Sunday between streets lined with tables and trinkets.

I have been to the market in the pouring rain, in the dead of July, on Easter and Christmas day — the open-air flea market became my place of peace and excitement, taking in everyday Roman chatter and commotion while striking a deal and finding one-of-a-kind (literally) treasures. I have made friends at the market and practiced my Italian with older sellers who wouldn’t dare to judge me. Walking through the stalls of the market, I felt like I belonged in my newly adopted city, even without speaking to anyone. After all, moving to a city without knowing a single soul is exceptionally lonely, so creating and honoring this little tradition I made for myself made the weekends much more enjoyable.

Background

I am no history expert, although I do enjoy the subject. Porta Portese has been around since the end of WWII, allowing Romans to sell and buy their used goods (essentially a black market) between Via Portuense and Rome’s Trastevere district. Porta Portese has expanded and become a Sunday tradition loved by locals and visitors alike. Rain or shine or Ferragosto holiday, the market is literally never closed.

Pre-Market Ritual & Starting Early

If you want to do the market like a pro, go early. And I am not talking 9:30 a.m. early; at that point, the crowds have already rolled in, and you are shoulder to shoulder with a local nonna who is not messing around. I like to arrive around 7:30/8 a.m., and am out the door on my way down to Viale Trastevere by 9:30/10 a.m. for my second coffee.

Speaking of coffee, it’s best to fuel up ahead of time. Indulge in a perfectly dripped espresso paired with a maritozzo, a Roman brioche-like sweet bun stuffed (and I mean STUFFED) with whipped cream. I know…it’s heavy…but it’s also Sunday.

If you’re starting from the backend of the market (where Via Portuense meets Via Ettore Rolli), stop at Il Maritozzaro. Their maritozzi are some of the best in the city. If it’s a sunny day and you arrive early, snag one of their medal chairs outside and enjoy the Roman blue sky.

Where to Start

Romans doing what they do best.

Okay, the market is long, like a mile long. Many people (I included) make the rookie mistake and start at the “main entrance” called Piazza di Porta Portese. By the time you make it halfway through, you’re tired out. I also think those stalls are the worst, and I have rarely struck luck (except for a vintage pair of Adidas Sambas, but that was back in 2019).

If you must choose, start at Via Ettore Rolli and go towards Viale Trastevere, or vice versa: at the entrance on Viale Trastevere and Via Ippolito Nievo (my favorite starting point). The tables are variable, prices are fair, and the assortment is plentiful.

Dig, dig, dig

I still regret to this day not snagging that denim quilted utility jacket.

Porta Portese isn't for you if you're not a digger. I like to say I manifest all of my Porta Portese finds, and they sometimes are just lying in front of me, but nonetheless, some of the best items will not just jump right out at you.

Nine times out of ten, the prices are marked above the table if it's items like clothes. You have to ask for the price for more knick-knacky things and trinkets. If you don't speak Italian, don't be afraid. Just say quanto costa? And the rest should be history. I try to negotiate a price now and then, but that's your fight if you want to pick it.

Quality

Look at the joy on this chic woman's face buying herself another fur coat for 10 euro.

There are a few specific market stands that sell vintage or very Y2K clothing (around the end of Via Ippolito Nievo). It is a more curated selection on hangers. Their selection is good, but it is a bit overpriced. You could probably get a better deal on websites like Vinted. 

Then there are tables with shitty paper signs that say “Italian Vintage” or simply the guy working there yelling “good price” (much more Porta style, anyway). Those are the piles you want to sift through. 

Don’t be afraid to check labels and hit up the stands that sell articles of clothing for between 1 euro and 5 euros a pop. If you’re undecided if it will fit, go for the risk. It’ll usually work out. 

Last thing, don’t skimp out on the piles of random items (anything from vintage moka pots to ceramic dishes, bags, and sunglasses). Thanks to these items, I have decorated my home and prized every single one.

Treasures that came home with me

A few of my favorite items I have found at the market. Side note: by now, my entire wardrobe is primarily second-hand. But these specific items bring me immense joy. 

Vintage plaid blazer by CIAO from the '90s for €3.

Fiorucci matches with a mini perfume bottle inside for €3.

Beautiful wicker basket-bag that was used by fishermen back in the day for €15 (overpriced and probably the most I spent on one item but it happens).

This pretty pink glass set used to store whiskey or liquor of choice for €5. 

An incredible sage green trench coat I have worn to death for €5.

Follow the official account on IG @portaporteseroma. My Roman friend created the profile just two years ago and was just featured in Vogue Italia.

Interested in more markets around Rome? Let me know.

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By Gabriela Rose